Take the Weavers Road, he says, pointing to an iron gateway between hedges of dark red roses, tumbling over the gates. The way through is a grassy path worn into the centre, billowing blossom on either side. We had bowled down twisty Kerry lanes to get there, burrowing through hedges of scarlet fuschia, purple heather and knotted thorn, white with yarrow.
A long walk down a stony path, we pass the grassy loop of a fairy fort; my heart beats faster at the view from Dunbeg. I pick up two stones from the earth and drop them, with an invocation to the god of the mountains, into a gap in the Stone-Age walls. I leave a coin as well. Someone else has left a ring as an offering. I’d leave my heart if I thought I’d get it back in one piece. It’s moments like that when I know I’m a pagan, no matter what.
